Buyer's Guide For Freestyle Scooters

Picking a freestyle scooter isn't complicated once you know what matters. It mostly comes down to two things: the right bar height for the rider, and a scooter that's actually built for tricks. This guide covers both, plus what changes as you go from a first scooter to a more advanced setup.

The quick version

1. Find the rider's age or height in the size chart below.
2. Check the recommended bar height for that row.
3. Click the link in that row to see every scooter that fits. That's it.

Want to understand the why? Keep reading.

Freestyle scooter size chart

Bar height is the most important thing to get right on a freestyle scooter. Too low and the rider is hunched over, and they'll outgrow it fast. Too high and the scooter is harder to control, even if it lasts longer. The chart below finds the right balance for each age.

How to read the chart

• Know their height? Use it. Age is a shortcut, but kids the same age can be 15–20 cm apart. If your kid is tall or short for their age, go with the row that matches their height.
• Between two rows? Pick the taller one. They'll grow into it.
• Bar height is measured from the ground to the top of the bar, with the scooter standing on its wheels. You'll find it on the "Total Height" line in the specs of every complete scooter on our site.

Why the bar is higher for younger riders

The classic rule for a growing kid is a bar somewhere between the hip and the belly button. As they grow, their hip rises toward the bar, until the scooter is too short.

For the youngest riders, we go a bit higher: the bottom of the range starts above the hip, and the top can go a few inches above the belly button. Kids grow about 5–6 cm a year, so a bar that fits perfectly today is too short a year later. Sizing up gives the scooter a couple more seasons. A beginner isn't doing whips and bar spins on day one, so a slightly higher bar is no problem. We still cap it so the scooter stays easy to control.

As riders get older, that extra room shrinks. By around age 12, the range lines up with the regular hip-to-belly-button rule.

Teens and adults

Once a rider is done growing, it's all about style and preference. Most riders end up with the bar around the hip or lower. The higher bars in the adult rows are there for two reasons: the tallest pro scooters often come with tall bars that you can cut down to your height, and some adults simply want a comfortable scooter to cruise around on.

The longer you ride, the more personal it gets. A lot of park riders go lower, down to mid-thigh, for easier tailwhips and bar spins. Street riders often prefer a bar around the hip for more control and comfort. The chart is the best starting point either way.

Can you come by the shop? That's still the best way to choose. The rider can stand on a few scooters and feel the difference right away. Find us here.

What makes a real freestyle scooter

Lots of scooters are sold as "freestyle" or "stunt" but aren't built to take tricks in the long run. In our opinion, a real freestyle scooter has:

• A fixed bar. No folding system and no height adjustment. Moving parts are weak points when you land.
• A one-piece deck. No folding mechanism there either.
• Metal-core wheels. Aluminum cores are the standard. Good nylon or plastic (PC) cores are fine for younger, lighter riders.
• An integrated, sealed headset. It keeps the steering smooth and lets you swap parts later.

Scooters without these are junior or transportation scooters. They're fine for getting around, but they aren't made for jumps and tricks. For the youngest riders who aren't ready for a full freestyle scooter yet, check out our junior scooters.

From first scooter to pro setup

Freestyle scooters roughly fall into three levels. The difference is mostly in materials, weight and how specialized the scooter is.

Beginner

• Tough and simple, often with a steel fork and steel bars.
• Usually 100–110 mm wheels.
• Smaller decks and lower bars, made for kids starting out.

Intermediate

• Lighter parts, like aluminum forks and bars, without giving up strength.
• 110 or 120 mm wheels. Bigger wheels roll faster and smoother on rough ground.
• Bigger decks and bars for growing riders.

Advanced

• The best materials and the lightest builds.
• Often built for one style. Park scooters are light and nimble for ramps and airs. Street scooters are heavier and stronger for rails, ledges and big drops.
• Pro-level compression systems and parts that are easy to upgrade.

Park, street or hybrid?

You’ll see a style on every scooter in our shop. Here’s what it means:

• Park: light and nimble, made for ramps, bowls and airs. Usually lighter bars, narrower decks and 110–120 mm wheels.
• Street: heavier and stronger, made for rails, ledges, stairs and big drops. Usually wider decks, wider wheels and a fender instead of a brake.
• Hybrid: a mix of both, for riders who do a bit of everything.

Just starting out? Don’t overthink it. Beginners ride everything, and any good freestyle scooter will do. Style starts to matter once a rider knows what they like to ride.

Specs worth knowing

• Compression holds the bar, fork and headset tight together. The main systems are IHC, HIC, SCS and ICS, and each one changes which bars and forks fit your scooter. See the clamps guide.
• Wheels: 110 mm is the most common size. 120 mm is faster and smoother, but a bit heavier. Most wheels are 24 mm wide, and some street completes come with wider 28–30 mm wheels for more stability on grinds and drops. See the wheels guide.
• Deck: width and length change how much foot room you have and how the scooter feels in the air. See the decks guide.
• Bars: height, width and material. See the bars guide.
• Brake or fender: most completes come with a flex brake. It sits over the back wheel, and you press it with your foot to slow down. A fender looks similar but doesn't brake. It's fixed, stronger, gives you more room for your back foot and can be used for tricks. Fenders are the go-to for street riders and are getting more popular in the park. For beginners and younger riders, we recommend a brake. See the brakes guide.

Custom scooters

A custom scooter is built part by part: deck, bar, fork, wheels and compression, all chosen to fit one rider's size and style. It's the next step when a rider knows exactly what they want. Check out our custom scooters for some of our own builds.

Don't skip the helmet

Everyone falls when learning, even pros. A certified helmet is a must, and knee and elbow pads save a lot of skin while learning new tricks. See the helmets guide, or check out our protective gear sets.

FAQ

My kid is tall (or short) for their age. Which row do I use?

Go by height. The age column is just a shortcut for when you don't know their height.

Can an adult ride a kid's scooter?

For tricks, a shorter bar works fine for some riders. For cruising or learning, an adult on a kid-size scooter will be hunched over and less stable. Stick to the adult rows.

When should we upgrade?

For a growing kid, when the bar drops below their hips. For any rider, when they start breaking parts or the scooter can't keep up with their tricks.

Complete or custom?

For a first scooter, go with a complete. It's ready to ride and every part is matched. A custom makes sense once the rider knows what they like. And nothing stops you from upgrading a complete part by part over time.